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Fashion; The Three Who Are Key: Couture's Future

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Supported by

Carrie Donovan

BY THE SEVENTH ISSUE, THE MANAGEMENT WAS CLEAR.

There would be no revolution."" Well, here's my story on the front page, "" said a fashion reporter to a colleague.

Last month was the occasion that many fashionable people had been waiting for weeks - the debut of Gianfranco Ferre's first collection for the house of Dior.Around 600 interested people were gathered in a stuffy, white silk tent and rose, erected on the in a former Rothschild mansion in Paris.Could it be as spectacular as the one that launched this fashion house in 1947? Would it be equal to the excitement of 1958, when Yves Saint Laurent became an instant star as a successor to the late Christian Dior? Could it be as interesting as Marc Bohan's first effort when he took over in 1961?

But by the time the model wearing the traditional final wedding dress made her way onto the runway, it was evident that the first Dior de Ferre did not belong to any of the above categories.It was a beautifully composed collection - cool, worldly, masterfully made - but at the height of old fashioned sewing.Perhaps seduced by the history of the house and the reputation of its legendary craftsmen, Ferre had produced a resounding replica of a Dior vernissage of the 1950s.Even the chopped and laid models like those of yesteryear But, here and there, there were flashes of modernity - a beaded blazer in a casual shape shown with flannel pants, for example.is where the future lies.

What happened to Ferre could happen to anyone.The important thing to remember is that he is a highly qualified designer, which has been evident for a long time in the ready-to-wear collections he presents in his When he started to blend in more with the robust structure of the Dior image, he would become one of the key players in Parisian couture.

Sewing itself, of course, is an archaic art: very few women in the world can afford to make clothes to order at prices that start at $ 10,000 and spiral upward.every fashion house loses money on this side of the world.But fashion plays a much more important role as a figurehead of a designer's empire, generating appeal for lucrative license contracts that generate And the couture collections also give designers an almost exhilarating chance to express their most creative talents.For example, the names of Saint Laurent, Ungaro, Givenchy and Valentino became famous due to their couture extravagances per year, although their impressive income comes from other products bearing their labels.Each season, each of these designers adds new shades and goes to their own style, but each of their signature s basic remains identifiable.

It is therefore up to the `` newcomers '' to wear couture, we hope, fascinating to new explorations of design.Ferre, with the support of the house of Dior, is able to do so.And Christian Lacroix is in the in the middle of doing it, with very different results.

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